Is it wrong that I was pleased to see kids ditching school to take advantage of the lovely day? Sunshine glinted, waves unrolled, the crowd factor… well, the crowd factor is just what you have to deal with now and despite the dropping-in and wait for waves, people smiled, said hey, relaxed into the easy conditions the weather had served up.
“Yeah, Mom!” Nick yelled as I picked a fine right off the rock. No one else was ready – I’d happened to have paddled back around at exactly the best time, turned and caught it, managed to dodge the other longboarders, the face held and held, blue playground stretched out before me – I am no more styley on a longboard than I am on the shorter ones, but I felt in tune with some sort of grace, curving up to the top of the wave, sliding back down – the pleasure of enough time to really be there in that long moment from pop-up to finish, the end not coming until I’d nearly landed on Wash Rock, much exposed from the minus tide. I shifted left to avoid the rock, dropped down and bellied in to the sand. Walked around to the channel for more. One surfer on one sweet wave on a day of two dozen surfers catching countless similar waves, most of them displaying far more skill than I while cruising down the line. I know how I feel on a wave differs greatly from how I look on one – but the feeling is so very good. I can live with the rest.
Meanwhile, Nick caught a number of waves on his shortboard – the lone shortboarder out – and was dropped in on every time. I took pity and gave him the longboard for a bit. He did just fine. I jokingly went after some waves on the shortboard, fared less well, had no less fun.