surf sessions #17, #18

Two sessions before vacation, didn’t have time to write’em up. Short version:

#17: K’s first time back in the water after months of not surfing. I hoped for waist-high, clean, sunny, longboarding conditions. Ended up with overhead, windy and shifty. She gave it a go, but both of us quickly wearied of fighting our way through the walls of whitewater — stupid beachbreak! — so the session ended without the moment of joy I’d hoped would rekindle her passion for surf. I was surfing leashless and, feeling off-kilter, lost my board on a wipeout, ended up swimming in. One of those days I was hard pressed to remember why it is we do this.

#18: Oh, yeah. This is why we do this.

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