surf sessions #19, #20, #21

#19: First time back in the water post-NYC. Wrong tide and wrong wind, but sunny and I surfed solo. Just enough of a little wave in the right spot to catch one easy right after another, remind myself that this is something I do.

#20: “Surfing is really stupid,” I told them, but they wanted to do it any way, so off to Moonstone we went. They caught whitewater while I paddled alone to the outside. We beat the wind, but not the tide and ended up changing out of our suits as rain poured down. But in between, I drifted along the glassy sea, picking off a right here, a left there, a bit of transcendence here, some peace of mind there… All I ever need to is to be in the ocean. Why do I ever forget that?

#21: Just Nick, myself, our neighbor and all the lovely head-high peaks one could want. I lack the fluidity of my neighbor and the springiness of my son; still I did all right. The clouds broke, the sun shone, the sky resembled an artist’s dream of ruffled clouds above snow-capped mountains. A beautiful start to the day.

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