surf sessions #24, #25, #26

#24: The ocean bullied us. One moment I’d be en route to Japan, the next shoved all the way back into the impact zone. (“I feel like I’ve been here before.”) Overhead and rainy, takeoff zone the size of a dinner plate. Nearly three hours of paddling resulted in too few waves — but each of those waves held up, offered what continues to be long, sweet lefts. Here’s hoping the sandbar holds alllllll summer long.

#25: South Beach! Everything you hope for when you drop down into Crescent City: Sunshine, waist-to-chest high lefts and rights, plenty of peaks for everyone, easy paddle to the outside, good friends, fun waves and post-session burritos!

#26: Had 30 minutes, caught five friendly chest-high waves, appreciated my cruisy 8’0″ Taylor afresh. Every day should start so cheerfully.

I didn't take any photos, so here's one from the Noll Longboard Classic. Looked about like this on Sunday, but sunny!

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