surf session #27, #28

Wow, the week went by quickly. These are already from last weekend. On a related note, am I really a person who’s only surfing on weekends? Yikes. We’re near the equinox and I’ve barely taken advantage of the long days. “Taken advantage,” as if the day is just lying around waiting for me to have my way with it. I should be so lucky.

Anyway, about those surf sessions…

#27: Moonstone. Took the whole famndamily (sans grown-up child Chelsea) to Moonstone for the first family togetherness surf in a while. Started my day at 6 a.m. to ensure a good solid breakfast, loaded up the truck myself with all four people’s worth of surf gear to make it as easy to leave as possible. All they had to do was roll out of bed, grab food, climb into vehicles. You’d think the recipients of such service would be a wee bit more grateful. I grit my teeth and got on with the getting there.

Chest-high lefts and rights, lots of folks out, but plenty of room on the various peaks. Glassy. Sun even came out. Conditions like that make it impossible for even moody teenagers and annoyed parents to stay grumpy. Smiles and laughter replaced frowns and sarcasm. At one point, paddling back out from my own wave, I saw Kaylee take off on a left, then Nick take off on the right behind her. A little candy moment to linger sweet in my memory.

#28: Camel. Micro. Seriously. But I didn’t care, convinced Bobby and Nick to paddle out with me anyway. Breaking over near the wash rock, where I first learned to surf on tiny waves exactly like the ones I kept paddling into. Waist-high, mostly close-outs. I waxed nostalgic in between sets and worked on finding grace when the waves came.

And now to go find some more tiny waves. Swell’s running 3 at 10. Must be summertime!

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