surf session #47


Hoping to surf in the morning, here in Ventura, where I’m ensconced in a hotel steps from the sand and ocean. But before that, a look back at Monday. We’d driven home from Mammoth via Sacramento, a gazillion hours spent in the car, another weekend of driving, great times, but the trekking to-and-fro leaving me stiff and tense and desperate to leap into the sea. So I did.

A porpoise popped by, gulls dove, I caught some waves, had one good wipeout taking off too late. The wave curled forward, my body plunged down before I could get my feet under me, the board shot up, I spun underwater, climbed back up my leash to the surface. Silly amount of drama for a wave head-high at best. Caught another to redeem myself. Rode a 7’6″ among the longboarders. Loved the sky. Happy to be home.

And then I left again…




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