surf sessions #60, #61, #62

What fall looks like

Something is clearly wrong with me as it’s October and I have only surfed six times. A few times I’ve stood around, watching when I should be paddling out, hesitant at the burliness of the waves, found myself thinking, “This is not my year.” Pretty much figure I should sell off my boards to someone who deserves them and take up disc golf or something.

Anyway, #60, #61: meh.

#62: This one gave me cause to believe that not all hope is lost. Besides admiring how well the people around me surf – if I’d had a camera, I would’ve had a series of classic rock star-surfer-tucked-into-wave shots – I found myself on a few waves that reminded me exactly why I love this.

Photo ganked from someone’s FB.


One thought on “surf sessions #60, #61, #62”

  1. Don’t feel bad. I’ve missed every good/decent swell that’s passed through the area since… well, summer. Family first, however, I sometimes catch myself looking at my boards collecting dust in a corner of my bedroom and feel a little sad.

    Such is life though. Such is life.

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