Something is clearly wrong with me as it’s October and I have only surfed six times. A few times I’ve stood around, watching when I should be paddling out, hesitant at the burliness of the waves, found myself thinking, “This is not my year.” Pretty much figure I should sell off my boards to someone who deserves them and take up disc golf or something.
Anyway, #60, #61: meh.
#62: This one gave me cause to believe that not all hope is lost. Besides admiring how well the people around me surf – if I’d had a camera, I would’ve had a series of classic rock star-surfer-tucked-into-wave shots – I found myself on a few waves that reminded me exactly why I love this.
Photo ganked from someone’s FB.