surf sessions #27, #28, #29

All three at the same location, three days in a row, deteriorating conditions. Swell, wind and tide matter, baby!

#27: Gray skies, minus tide, early morning crew, just overhead on the sets, but mellow enough to take off as late as necessary. Mostly lefts, some rights. I took out the 7’5″ after months of longboarding and was reminded how much easier it is to turn when all I have to do is look where I want to go and everything else follows along. I made all my drops, had time to think about how I wanted to move on the wave — I know it looks like nothing from outside my head, but inside, it was a good day!

#28: Why I don’t let the good days go to my head — because an awesome wipeout’s always right around the corner! Pearled, flipped, ended up with water shoved so far up my nose that it poured back out every time I leaned over for the rest of the day. On the upside, all the other waves I didn’t wipe out on — and did I mention the rainbow? As I paddled out, a rainbow emerged from the sky — the sun had split the clouds to the north, bright and low, lighting up the raindrops like crystals and making a rainbow that brightened and stayed through three waves — three times I rode down a wave face with that rainbow glowing above. I should never complain about anything ever again.

#29: Not complaining! I knew we’d missed our tidal window. My expectations were confirmed. Cut it short and went to work.

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